How to tailor trousers

Trousers are important to dress your shape. Finding trousers that flatter your shape can be difficult but simple sewing techniques can fix that.




WHAT YOU'LL NEED


Shears

Stitch ripper

Chalk (or any other medium to temporary make marks for precision)

Pins

Measuring tape

Needle & Thread






BEFORE YOU START



Know your measurements


The numbers that retailers use to size their clothing vary from brand to brand. Rather than reference clothing sizes, keep a list of your measurements (neck, bust, arms, waist, hips, and inseam) on hand when you shop. When shopping online, look for the sizing chart on the item page; when shopping in person, bring a measuring tape or pay attention to how a garment fits in the dressing room. Then, when you’re ready to tailor, you’ll know the precise areas you need to address.



Test before you cut


Before altering your clothes, measure and preview the fit. You can preview your alterations by sketching your stitches onto the garment in tailor’s chalk and pinning the garment where you’re going to sew, or by sewing the new seam (you can always unstitch the seam if it’s not quite right). Try the garment on again before cutting away the excess fabric to ensure the alterations are correct.



Use the right thread


When sewing alterations, use thread that blends into the fabric—for instance, use black thread to alter a black blouse. Choosing the appropriate color thread makes your alteration more discrete, and you won’t need to worry about stitching a perfectly straight line.



Lock in your stitches


Once you begin sewing, ensure that your stitches will last by locking them in (also called “backstitching”) at the beginning and end of each seam. To backstitch, sew a few straight stitches forward and then press the button on your machine to sew in reverse (or use the “lock stitch” button, if your machine has one), doubling up on the first few stitches before releasing the reverse button and sewing forward again.






Tightening the waist

Decide how much fabric to remove from the waist. Try on the garment and pinch the excess fabric at the waist until the waist is as tight as you like. Mark the place where you're pinching with pins or chalk, being sure to get both sides of the pinched fabric. Then, take the trousers off and measure between the two points you marked to see how much fabric to remove.


You may need to remove belt loops to achieve a clean finish depending on your garment. If needed, use a seam ripper to pull out the stitches that are securing the back belt loop to the waist of the trouser. Then, remove the loop and set it aside. Keep the back loop so you can reattach it to the pants after you've adjusted the waist.


Fold the waistband and straight stitch it closed. The waistband stitches should line up with where they were before you seam ripped them out. Then, sew the waistband back in place and reattach the back belt loop if you like



Tapering trousers

Try the garment inside out and decide how much fabric you want to remove. Pinch these sections and mark with chalk or pins and . Sew a straight stitch across the marked areas ensuring that the stitch is straight. Cut off excess fabric and iron the seams open to secure them and for a clean finish. Try on the garment and make adjustments accordingly. It's truly that simple.


For a dramatic taper, you'll probably want to remove more fabric from the pant leg hemline than from the inner thigh.



Hemming trousers

To hem trousers is similar to tapering them. Unpick the current hemming and try on the trousers inside out, Make markings on your desired length and pin in place. Cut off excess material but ensure you have enough material to create a new hem. Because the hem is folded on itself, you will require a larger seam allowance. Fold the edges upwards twice to hide raw edged and sew in place. Iron the hem flat and and try on.




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